More Tina Givens - The Phoebe Top and Trousers and a Touch of Jaqueline

I've made the Phoebe trousers a few times already, but hadn't made the top that goes with these trousers.  Here is the pattern from the Tina Givens website:

Actually, I'm kind of lying a bit.  I have made the top out of white rayon (under layer) and blue patterned cotton (upper layer), but I cut the blue too short and the proportions were not very flattering, and the combination of fabrics looked like an apron that my grandmothers would have worn, so I did not complete it.  Nonetheless, I wanted to give it a go - and I made it as part of the garments I was sewing for the 2015 Artisans Square SWAP:

As you can see, I only made the one layer and chose the longer inner layer.  I changed the sleeves up a little and made cap sleeves, and made the same changes that I would ordinarily make - sloping shoulders, dartless FBA. I also put a seam in the back to save a little on fabric and to break up the expanses of fabric.  I used my serger to make a rolled hem, and shaped the neckline a little to make it more 'v' neck.  I made a small facing that I attached iron-on interfacing to support the neckline, and sewed it down with some top-stitching to keep it from rolling to the right side.

It is a cute top that looks great in these photos - once the volume has been tamed.  There is a lot of fabric in this top, and when I make it next, I will take out some of the volume.  What I do like - and this is rather strange, is the side seams that are curved to give tulip shape.

One of my cottons cardis (Simplicity 2154), co-ordinates very nicely with this top - and the Phoebe trousers - I'm just not sure if I would be better off with a cardi with a shaped hem, rather than a straight, horizontal one.  I need to think about that!

The fabric is a white linen - the same line that I used for the trousers (above and below), and another 'Jaqueline' top (below) that I made with a cute lace patch on the front:

Here is a close up:

This is my 'Ruth' of Core Couture pose.  She often stands side on/quarter turn and always looks fab!

Nothing new about this slip or the co-ordinating trousers - But I love them!

And what about the 'props'?  The chair with a bag and a cowboy hat?  I was taking (dozens) of photos that show all the items that I had made for the SWAP that I have titled 'Out of Alberta' so I had to throw in a cowboy hat!  I'm nothing if not subtle!

iPad Stand and a Couple of Bras

I love to read other crafty blogs - sewing,  knitting, crochet, quilting etc., and pick up on their ideas.  This morning I read Sotak's blog, and she had a post about making tablet holders.  She herself had seen them on Pinterest, here.  Well, who doesn't need a handy holder for their tablet?  So this is what I made whilst watching an episode of NCIS this morning:

They are made out of a rectangle of fabric, sewn and twisted and stuffed with rice and regular stuffing.

How fab is that?!  They really are very useful so I made one for Mr. SDSC and one for my father.  Oh, and then I decided I need another in my sewing room because it is such a drag to have to carry one from one room to another (I don't have a photo of that one, but it is just as cute!) . . . . they are very quick to make - less that a half hour.  Due to the rice, they are quite stable - I have mine balanced on the arm of my chair right now.  The only change that I made to the instructions, was the same as Sotaks, and I ironed some fusible interfacing to the fabric.  It has a bit of loft to it - 1/16" max, and I iron it onto the little bags that I make.  It made the project feel smooth and soft.

I think that they would work well with other types of tablets/book readers, and maybe even small books.

I also made a couple more partial band bras, but the photos are a little a washed out:

It was pretty straightforward, overlaying some textured, dotty lace on the upper cup and the bridge.  It went together quickly and easily and has already been 'tested'!

I then saw this whilst walking past La Senza yesterday:

Source

What I liked was the plain cup with the lace on the bridge and the sides/back.  So I made one!

I'm really pleased with this.  I used fabric spray to attach the lace to the base fabric - I did this on the pink bra above as well, and it was more successful with that bra - on this one it pealed away, but held enough for me to sew it all together.  The only problem is - I was a little aggressive with the bottom band elastic and it bordering on 'uncomfortably snug'.  I will wear this on my 'skinny' days!  I am going to play with some foam cups next - ones that I make myself and then cover with fabric.  I've been watching some great videos on Make Bra - lots of great ideas!

I also have some more linen, and have some TG garments in mind - I may be swapping out a garment or two from my current TG collections for the Artisan's Square SWAP - I've got over a week left, so loads of time!

How was your sewing this week?

Back to Basics

I have to say that I had a great time with my TG sewing, and when I finished the pieces that I had in mind, I was at a bit of a loss as to what to sew next.  It is almost like coming down off an adrenalin rush, well not really, but there is definitely some kind feeling of loss.

So, what to sew next?  Well, my 'go to' project when I am feeling a little down, or need to sew but don't have anything planned, it to make something small like a mug-rug, or a pouch.  The thing is, I am planing on attending another bra making course in Hamilton later in the year with the lovely Beverly of Bra Makers Supplies, and I had picked up a half yard of 'bra' quilting fabric.  So I made a pouch!

The lining is made from some Ikea pillowcases - we buy the cheap duvets and covers for our greyhounds to lie on.  When they need laundering it is a lot easier that washing a regular dog bed of the size that would be suitable for greyhounds - they are big dogs! The pillowcases are always unused, but the print worked really well with this pouch as a lining.

Having made a lovely pouch that I will use to hold some sewing notions on my bra-making trip, I thought I'd make a bra.  Just like that!  I recently bought the Craftsy Class, Sewing Bras, Designer Techniques by Beverly Johnson.  This course is a follow on from the basic bra making course, Sewing Bras, Construction and Fit.  There were a couple of details that I was particularly interested in, the first was sewing a bra with a partial band.  In other words, the band does not go under the cups.  Secondly, Beverly shows you how to change the back band to help prevent bra straps falling down.  I have sloping shoulders (I guess we probably all have) and this seemed an ideal opportunity to try it out.

I used my Classic Bra pattern from Beverly's Pin Up line - I have made this many times before and it is very comfortable, and then followed the Craftsy Class to make the necessary alterations.  You could purchase the pattern complete, without have to made the changes, and it is called the Linda Bra.  However, the pattern is $20 plus P&P, and the Craftsy course is currently on sale for $24.99, so it makes sense to get the course if you already have a fitted Classic Bra pattern.  The construction is pretty straightforward, although there were a few changes in comparison to the Classic Bra, but it went together well:

I will wear this tomorrow and give it a good 'try out'!  It seems a little too big around my rib cage so I have trimmed 1/2" of the back band on the pattern.  I will need to wear this bra on the middle hook and eye setting, so I think it will be OK.  I also noted that the bridge does not sit flat on my chest, so I'll have to look into that.  It is not out by much, so a small adjustment is probably all that is needed.  Other than that, all seems good.  I like the feel of there being no band under the cups, so once I have these two little issues sorted out, I will start making some fancy smanchy versions!  As I have made the back band higher to help prevent the strap slippage, there is not much space for strap adjustment.  I used the elastic that comes with one of Beverly's findings kits, but that only gives you a maximum of 10" per strap.  I will either have to buy it by the metre in future, or see if she would add 2-3" more in a pack.  I think that would do the job!

Again, I can't recommend Beverly's patterns and classes enough - I think that they are great!

So, that was my weekend sewing - how was yours?

Out of Alberta - the Details

I am a 'multiples maker' - in other words, when I get a pattern all worked out I like to make it again, and again, and again.  So it was no surprise that it should happen when working on my Tina Givens Collection for the Artisans Square 2015 SWAP (sewing with a plan) as you can see from my last post!

I had a lot of fun with details, and wanted to talk more about them, and the actual patterns.  The instructions that come with TG patterns, are quite different than the instructions that you would get with the Big 4.  Two pages, letter/A4 sized, a few pictures and some written instructions.  They are adequate, but there may be some head scratching if you are new to this sewing game.  But fear not - there is always Google!  So what did I do and what did I change?  I rather liked the cute patchwork detail - but not your Grannies patchwork - where random fabric scraps are added to your garments:

In comparison to the details on TG clothes, this is ultra conservative, but for me this is wildly way out there!!  As the clothes get washed then the edges will ruffle and fray a bit more adding character.

As you can also see from these pics, I have also top and edge-stitched pretty much all the seams.  I like the strength it adds as well as a kind of utilitarian tidiness.

Next up was the neckline and arm opening.  I started using my usual smart finish - no raw edges, like this:

I used to find that binding made the edges gap outwards, and so I changed the way I attached the binding and this is what works for me.  I cut my own binding using a rotary cutter at 1.25" wide.  I then feed it through my bias binder making thingy and I find that the extra 1/4" means that the binding meets nicely in the centre.  I sew the binding to the top from the inside (so the right side of the binding is sewn to the wrong side arm/neckline, stretching the binding a little as I sew it on.  I then flip it ALL to the right side of the garment and sew it down using a edge foot that keeps my stitching nice and tidy.

Miss TG applies her binding like this:

So I tried it too!  Same width binding, folded in half and pressed, then sewed it to the raw edges from the right side - top and edge-stitching (do you see the pattern?  I will try the raw edge finishes but don't take away my top stitching!)  As the garment gets washed, the bindings will fray and ruffle.  I am hoping that I did not sew too close to the edge and that the binding will stay put!

Another detail I utilized was adding a few buttons to my Kika dress:

You may recognize this finish and you get top marks if you recognized it from Colette's Sorbetto as seen here.

I know a lot of people would shy away from this kind of design due to the thin fabrics, wide and uneven hems.  If you have a serger, the chances are that you can do a rolled hem like I did:

Just how quick and easy is that?  I rolled the hems on the pieces before serging the side seams so that I did not need to 'roll' over a seam.  I think that the finish looks pretty good.  And yes, I have to match my serger thread!!

So there you have it - a few details that would have mde the previous post waaaaay too long!  I hope that there was something there that you found useful.  What are your favorite details that you use with your sewing?  Do tell!!

Out of Alberta - Part Deux

I have to say that I love long weekends - and I managed to make this Easter weekend a five day sewfest.  And where to begin?  To start with, I picked up some lovely linen/viscose blend (Azalia Natural Prints and Solids) from my local fabric shop (Fabricland).

You can just about tell from the photos that the fabric has a lovely linen texture, but doesn't crease quite so much.  It also is a great weight and drapes beautifully.  I wanted to add some more colour to my Tina Givens Collection, and thought that these would go well with the mostly neutral pallette that I have so far.

And this is what I made:

Let me talk you through these goodies.  From the left is a white Zelda dress, the Peplone jacket from before - but now with buttons (!), two pairs of Jaqueline trousers, one pair floral and the other from the same fabric as the Peplone, a green Kika top (minus the frills) and a fushia Jacqueline slip.

Here are all the garments so far:

The very first white slip that I made, from rayon, is not included here - I plan on making a better fitting slip out of white cotton - the same fabric as I used for the longer skirt on the pink and white dress.

Now some photos and details!

White Kika dress made from the linen/viscose fabric.  The top is based on my 'Sorbetto' top and and I added the pleat and some pretty buttons.  I am wearing it here with another pair of Jacqueline trousers made from the same fabric as the Peplone jacket.

Green Zelda slip - without a frill!  Again with the same traousers as above.

Pink Jaqueline slip.

Peplone jacket from my last post worn with some floral Jaqueline trousers.

And with the fushia slip . . . .

And the green Kika.

I then thought that the Peplone and matching trousers would make a great TG suit, so I paired them with a green Sorbetto that I made a couple of years ago - looks pretty good I think/  And then my camera battery ran out!!

I have loads more to write about - close ups, comments on the patterns as well as playing around with 'looks' using these garments, but it is getting late and I need to go to work tomorrow (something to do with earning the money to pay for the fabric . . . . !)