Tartan Daffodil

Now there is a great name for a band!  For me it is the latest Tina Given slip that I have made, so let me tell you about it. . . . .

Daffodil had previously passed me by, but when I saw the line drawings - a slip with a hankerchief hem - I thought that it would work for me.  Pair that with some lovely tartan rayon that I had to hand, and I knew that my next project was good to go!  The fabric is very soft and silky with a great drape.  It does not cling - either to me or other fabric/clothes, so will (hopefully) work really well.

Source

The original pattern has two pieces making up the front (and back) as well as having sleeves.  I thought that it would work well as a one piece front (and back) and without sleeves.

I prefer to to wear a cardi over my slip, so sleeves are really not necessary to me.  Having made my changes, this is what I ended up with:

And I love it!  I actually made it too long, so I folded it up 3" which was one check, and you can just about see that around the dropped waistline level - I like to think of this as a design feature!!

I also found that as my fabric was 45" wide, I had to add a band on each side of the hankerchief skirt to compensate for the lack of width.  In my head I devised lots of different ways to hide the seam - a bias binding strip, black ribbon trim, etc., but in the end, the seam was barely noticeable (I actually had forgotten about it), so I left it as it was.  I bound the arms, neckline and hem with single fold bias binding, and OMG - check out how centralised it was on the centre front.  Totally a fluke, but I'll take it!!

I added a single bias cut patch pocket with a bit of black lace as trim.  Oh boy.  Rayon fabric that has a lovely silky drape does not play nice on the bias.  Hence just the one pocket!!!!

Of course, I added a patch centre upper back (the inside one has my label on it) and I used a scrap of lace (leftover from when I made a bra, see the second one down, here)

And here it is all dolled up.  I took part in a '12 Days of Christmas' pledge wearing Tina Givens designs, and as I was at work on the day I wore this outfit, a bathroom selfie will have to suffice!  I am wearing it here with a pinstriped Patricia skirt (which it appears I haven't previously blogged about) and a black jersey/Lycra McCalls 6168 cardi.  I LOVE this look, and have some rayon in another tartan to make another.

Tartan Daffodils anyone?

Edit:  Further to Lisa's question about having to add side panels, this is what I meant:

The solid vertical black lines are the edges of the fabric with the fold being on the right.  The pattern piece extends outside of the fabric (the dotted line on the left) so I had to cut that piece separately (actually there were four additional pieces, front and back, left and right extension pieces) and then attach them to the main body of the slip.

And now you can see why I sew and I'm not an illustrator!!!  I hope that helps.

Restyling Patricia

Over the last few months I have made a few Patricia Skirts (Tina Givens - who else?!).  The pattern is for a dropped yoke with a gathered skirt attached and then the hem is pulled in and sewn to a band.  It has a very funky balloon or pegged (thank-you Lorie for the description!) look.

So far, so good.  Well, not really.  The skirts have been sitting in the back of my wardrobe - feeling a little unloved, so I set about determining what the issue is and fixing it.

It turns out that there are two issues - one is that I clearly walk like an Amazon with big ground-covering strides, and the hem band is rather restrictive.  I found this especially so when getting in and out of the car, stepping over lounging dogs - you get the picture!  Also, the skirt has no pockets.  Well, my version doesn't.  I changed the pattern a little to make the yoke one piece with an elasticated waist, so no side seams.  One of the joys of making my own clothes is to add pockets, usually inseam.  To everything. Well. Almost!

To fix the first issue, I made a couple of the skirts with an elasticated hemline - thereby keeping the shape of the skirt, and yet making it more 'walkable'.

This is a lovely Royal Stewart Tartan in brushed cotton and is lovely to wear.

In order for this to work - I need to have gathered the bottom skirt onto the yoke.  However, what about the skirts that I had pleated onto the yoke?  I find this a lot quicker and easier than gathering, so I needed another solution.  I noticed that another designer, Krista Larson has a similar RTW design with an unrestricted hemline - so that was the way to go. I cut off the original hem treatment and a simple single fold bias binding attached with a triple stitch zigzig was all that was needed:

This is the first skirt that I changed, and as I did not have any of the chocolate linen/rayon, I dug around and found some co-ordinating linen with a stripe pattern.  The hem looked a little strange being in a different colour, but when a scrap was added down the side over part of the ruffle, and a patch pocket was sewn to the yoke it looked much better - and solved my second issue!

Sorry about the colour variation, the middle of these three photos is closest to the correct colours.  I had to piece the pocket together, but I think it looks rather good.  It is 6" wide and this is about 6-7" in depth - enough for some lip salve, a tissue etc!  And it is double thickness with some interfacing ironed on near the top.

And then I did some other skirts . . . . 

This is a lovely 100% wool with browns/dusky pink/greys that I got for a steal from Fabric Mart or Fabric.com a few years ago before the Canadian Dollar tanked against the US Dollar.  Is is very soft and washes well.  I cut this pocket on the bias, and left the seam that made this double layered on the front so that it can gently fray.  My 'design feature'!  The other bonus with this skirt was that the hemline was quite bulky before and wasn't quite 'right'.  But now - it is lighter, and to my mind, more attractive!

I also updated a plain black 'Patricia' with a strip of lace along the ruffle and on the pocket - you will need to use your imagination for that one though as the photos came out terribly.  And finally, the Royal Stewart skirt has this pocket:

Again, cut on the bias with a scrap of lace 'just for fun'!

Due to the type of tops I wear with my skirts, the pockets will likely be covered, but just knowing that they are there makes me smile.

I am really pleased with this simple makeover.  My skirts are now a lot more wearable and still retain the boho/Lagenlook style that I love. 

Tina Givens with a Side of Krista Larson

I managed to get some good sewing in over the last couple of weeks, and have some goodies to share!

I am a big fan of Tina Givens - although I do need to make a number of alterations for the patterns to suit me.  Having said that, once those alterations are done, sewing them up in very quick and easy!  I also follow a Facebook page for Kati Koos - a shop in San Francisco that stocks TG ready made clothes as well as a number of other designers including Krista Larson.  Lots of eye candy happening there . . . . including this ensemble:

Source Kati Koos

I really liked the plaid skirt, and had seen versions (check out the Nikki skirt) that looked like the TG Patrica skirt.  So I though that I would make one . . . . . The TG Patricia skirt is essentially a deep yoke, with the main skirt attached in gathers to the bottom and gathered at the hem.  I have made a few versions of the skirt, and have added a binding at the bottom about 54" wide.  I can walk quite comfortably in this but could do with a little more stretch.  So I thought I'd try a version with a narrow 1/2" elastic in the bottom hem.

The fabric is a very lightweight 100% cotton - a lawn/hankerchief weight but not sheer.  The plaid is printed rather than woven, but the colours were lovely - a deep burgundy red, cream and teal - a bit like a dirty turquoise.

Worn here with my cream linen Zelda.

And a new cardi . . . . . I know!  This is view C from my much used McCalls 6168.  The cardi is a raised neckline - the shoulder seams continue up the side of your neck.  No facings.  I cut 1.5" strips of fabric, folded in half and pressed, and sewed them all around the neck/front/edges.  This is the same process that I use for a lot of my slips and jackets.

The fronts are really long!  I think I cut them on the cross grain instead of the straight grain and they have stretched a little.  Not a problem - but I think that explains why the front tips are longer than the pattern indicates!  The fabric is a very lightweight rayon that holds a press.  My corners were not the best, but a good pressing and they look better than they have any right to do!

There is quite a lot of fabric in this cardi - close on 3m.  I like it but I'm not sure if I'd make another.  I think I prefer the waterfall cardi's where the front pieces are extended to wrap around the back.  This will get a lot of wear though!

The fabric matches the skirt beautifully though!  And this is with a Sorbetto that is lot shorter in length.

I also finished a pair of chocolate linen Plinkas.  This is a free pattern from TG.  I was totally inspired by this version, and so I went to work!

There are lots of pleats!

These photos are taken with my TG Cara in cream linen.

I did make a few changes.  I actually mostly used the pattern  that I had adapted from the Phoebe pattern.  Basically, rather than have a one piece trouser leg, I have standard front and back pieces that fit me comfortably, and no dropped crotch.  This allows me to have side seam pockets :)  The leg widths are the same as the pattern though, as are the various horizontal pleats and the attached pleats.

I have to say that these trousers are yet another design that I enjoyed making, when I put them on I was a little unsure of the design, but now I can see photos of them being worn . . . . I love them!  I am somewhat wary of looking like an extra on 'Little House on the Prairie'.  I'm not sure if I would wear these to work - but I'd certainly wear them out and about!

So, what have you been making?

11th Day of Christmas - Work Clothes

Whooosh!  The New Year is off to a mixed start.  I needed to make a couple of pairs of work trousers - quite standard, I've made them before (two years ago in fact!) and am in need of some more.  I've adjusted the pattern a couple of times (it is a TNT McCalls 5239), I shaved off the edges last summer when I lost weight, and need to add it back on (sigh!)  So, I cut two pairs out - nice and simple elasticated waist, lined, side seam pockets etc.,

These are just plain black wool and I think that I've hemmed them a little long.  Grrrr.  You can see them bagging out as a result.  The hems are handsewn so I'll take a look at that during the week.  Shouldn't take too long.  Just grrrr!  The vest top is another Sorbetto with a gathered frill down the front (a la Tina Givens!) just for decoration.  Due to the colour, it will get worn a lot!

The coral coloured jacket is yet another McCalls 6169 and is made up in a rayon knit.  It is quite thin and floaty and will be perfect for work.  I think that it will work pretty well in Summer as well as it is so light.

Because black trousers are so boring, here is another look with a black cotton jersey McCalls 6169.  This is much heavier than the coral one above . . . . and beautifully shows off the white dogs hairs from young Nico.  I actually made this last December. I am wearing it with a lovely red scarf that makes me smile whenever I wear it!  Such a cheery colour.

The second pair are made from a black pinstripe wool/poly blend.  Maybe not so much on the wool actually, but the fabric is just delish - very soft and drapey.  The stripes are brown, bordered by skinny white stripes.

These are a much better length, but to my mind, the legs are rather baggy.  I probably should have gone back to the original pattern and altered that rather than the adjusted TNT.  They do look great from the back though and both pairs will be worn through the winter at work.

Whilst I was prancing about taking photos (Mr. SDSC was busying himself making a lovely late lunch - thanks honey!) I spied a wool, tartan (well, plaid) Patricia skirt by Tina Givens that I don't think I'd photographed previously.  I made this in December last year as well:

I love this skirt!

So, that's my start to the New Year - two pairs of trousers.  How about you?  How is your New Year shaping up?

1st Day of Christmas - TG Outfit

Well Christmas came round really quickly this year.  I can put my hand up and say 'yes', I was one of those people who contemplated making Christmas gifts and decorations in July and then though, nah,  way too early . . . . . and whoooooosh, here we are!!  The best bit for me is that I am off work for a couple of weeks so it is a real luxury to be able to chill out, sew, knit, walk, talk, snooze, drink . . . . . just everything!!  I do hope that your Christmas is just as enjoyable, and I wish you and yours a relaxing and peaceful time.

And I have been busy sewing . . . . want to see my Christmas outfit?  I don't usually make something specifically for Christmas Day, but I love that other people do it, so I thought that I would give it a try.  As you have probably read, I have been embracing Lagenlook and using Tina Givens Patterns - and this was to be no exception.  The skirt is the Patricia pattern, the tunic is Cara and I used a Simplicity pattern for the cardi/jacket.  Here are my changes and info!

Skirt - Patricia

The pattern itself has a shaped yoke and then a skirt gathered onto it with a band around the bottom that draws in the fullness.  As I do not have much of a hip/waist ratio, I cut the yoke piece as a straight rectangle - no other changes made.  I love the gathered strips on the side seams - it adds a touch of fun and is somewhat unexpected!  The fabric is a cotton/hemp (55%/45%) mix and is heavier than linen with quite a loose weave.  I also made a plain nylon (?) jersey petticoat to wear underneath - I can't stand clothing sticking to my legs or stockings.  This meant that I didn't need to line the skirt.  I've made a couple of others out of a dark chocolate brown and a plain black as well.  They are from linen so they are a little more drapey.

Here you can see the petticoat in action (above)!

My attempt at Merchant and Mills photography . . . . . !

Just a little hemline action!

Tunic - Cara

I love this tunic - It is a fun and comfy make!  For this version I added pockets in the side seams and sewed a small scrap of spotty black lace and a gathered frill to the neckline.  I bound the neckline, arms and bottom with 1.25" bias strips, folded in half, and triple zig-zagged to enclose the exposed seams.  Very quick and easy.

Jacket - Simplicity 1318

I've seen this jacket made up a few times and thought that it would be a fun one to make.  I was going to make during the summer with a lightweight georgette but never got round to it.  When I started thinking of a Christmas outfit, I thought that this pattern would work perfectly - black linen with lace sleeves.  So that is what I did!  I made an adjustment to the upper back of the jacket to accommodate my rounded upper back as well as adding a small triangular shape to the ends of each sleeve so that inserting the sleeves and sewing the side/sleeve seams would be more smooth.  And that was it.  Quick and easy right?  Nope.  Not for me.  I managed to attach the two front pieces the wrong way round, so the jacket looked more like a man's shirt tails.  Grr.  I didn't realize until I was ready to sew the side/sleeve seams and had to unpick lots of top-stitching and overlocking.  It was worth it though as I love the look of this jacket.  I think that it finishes off the outfit nicely and it will work with lots of other outfits that I have.  There is quite a lot of hand stitching - the inside of the front bands and the sleeve bands, but it gives a lovely finish.  If I was to make this again - and I probably will, I will attach the inner bands first, then turn under the seam allowance for the outer bands and top and edge stitch them down.

I think that the outfit has a somewhat Victorian/gothic look due to the colour of the fabrics, but I rather like that!!

And finally . . . . I got some new shoes for Christmas . . . . and they work perfectly with my new outfit:

So, how about you?  Did you make an outfit for Christmas?