Moving Onwards - aka, More Fitting Fun!

In November last year I took a 'Fit For Real People' class based upon the Palmer/Pletsch teachings with the fabulous instructor Janice.  More details here.  As a result, I have made 5 great fitting cardigan type jackets from ponte knit (wow - I can't find any photos, I will have to rectify that!) as well as 8 or 9 Sorbetto tops (find out more here!)

So, when Janice advertised that she was going to run a  follow up 'pants' fitting class, I was all over her like a rash.  I have to pause here and let you know that as I am British born and Bred (although I am now living the dream in Canada) and that 'pants' to me have two meanings before we even get to 'trousers'.  First of all they are knickers, undergarments etc.  So when ever I hear talk about pants, I first think of underwear, have a little snicker to myself then have my second thought . . . . which is that if something is 'pants' then it is bad/wrong etc.  To put it into context:

Tilly being eliminated from the Great British Sewing Bee is 'pants'. 

See what I mean?

Only after these two thoughts have completed their dizzy dance inside my head do I realise that pants are also know as trousers.  So if we ever meet and discuss clothing, please excuse the delay in some of my responses . . . . !  Sewaholic had a great discussion on her blog about these differences - go take a look!

Anyway, back to the story - I am happy with my skirt making, getting more confident with fitted tops, so pants seem to be the next garment to master.  Yet again, I found out why I have so many issues with both sewing patterns and RTW.  My RTW jeans and trousers are always hugely baggy under my butt - I can always gather up a handful of fabric and there are times when my trousers have been known to start letting gravity take hold and slip down past my hips.  The reason is that my hips are too small for my waist measurement (the other way to look at it is that my waist is too big for my hips but we are not going down that road).  So after some pattern selection and tissue fitting, Janice happily advised me that I have a flat butt - like a seriously flat butt (we took out an inch in the back pattern piece.  On. each. side. - and I am still flapping in the wind).  But hey, I am not drooping yet, says Janice.  Thanks heavens!  After a number of alterations to the pattern pieces, the result is that my rear is two sizes smaller than the front of me - I tried explaining that to Mr. SDSC and he dissolved in a fit of giggles.  Seriously? 

My homework for this week is to insert an invisble zipper into the crotch - I think I am going to go for centre front - and sew up the crotch seam.  This will be a plain garment - no pockets or fancy smancy stuff, and I am using McCalls 5239 which is supplied as part of the course:

I have a lightweight (summer weight really) denim, as well as a heavier dark brown jumbo corduroy (with a bit of stretch), so I will use one of these two fabrics.

The class is based upon the Pants for Real People book that I got for Christmas:

I know that this probably reads like an advertisement - it is not meant to but I am really excited about these classes.  I am sure that there are lots of other classes that you all attend and making the connection that although my measurements may match those on the back of a pattern does not mean that the pattern will fit is just such a revelation.  I want to jump on the 'wool crepe pants' bandwagon and knock out a few pairs for work as well as making some fun casual trousers and this is a great place to start.

Well, that is me - by next weekend I should have some well fitting pants to wear, and I will get some photos taken of my cardigan/jackets that I have made as well.  The fire is back again and I am ready to sew! 

Does Size Matter?

There are a number of answers to that question.  As I am clearly plus sized - my answer is comfortably 'no', however, when it comes to sewing.  It does.  In a big way.  Let me explain . . . . .

This weekend I had the pleasure to attend a 'Fit for Real People' sewing class held by the lovely Janice in her home.  There were just two other ladies present so there was lots of one-on-one assistance.

 

The course is based upon the Pati Palmer and Marta Alto book of the same name.  Oh boy - what an eye opener!  Following a (very) interesting exercise where we drew round each others' bodies so we could 'see' what we looked like and compare ourselves to' standard' proportions we tried on upper body slopers.  Now this is where the fun started.  I have always purchased patterns based upon my bust measurement - it is the largest measurement and I can always take in the other areas.  Right?  Well, no - actually not.  Turns out that this is where I have been going wrong for so many years.  Turns out that I should have been using patterns based on my upper bust measurement - in other words, using a pattern THREE sizes smaller.  And guess what . . . . all the fitting problems that I have had in the past magically disappeared.

I have avoided fitted sleeves for as long as I can remember - not because I cannot set them in, but because I always looked like a line backer.  I recently bought a number of '80's sewing patterns because of their dropped shoulders - they would fit me, no problem. 

The same with the backs of tops and jackets - they were waaaay too big.  In fact, this can be seen in the back view of the cardigans that I have recently made, but I just passed this off as being 'casual'.  Janice showed me that I needed a FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) - I had heard of these but never really understood why they were required or when.  Oh, and one of the most irritating issues was that tops would slide down my back, raising the front neckline.  I was constantly pulling the front of my tops down.

And this is what my pattern pieces look like:

 

I should mention here that my dressmaker's dummy is somewhat smaller than the 'current me' - I think that I will have to trade her in for one more my size!  Anyway, there are a few adjustments made that will now have to be added to most of the patterns that I use in the future - but now I know what those adjustments will be:

• 3" FBA
• Drop the bust point 1"
• 1/2" and 3/4"  back adjustment.

There are a couple of other minor adjustments that will make a 'perfect' fit of the sloper, and we will be refining them next week.  It was very interesting and helpful, commenting on the fit issues of my classmates and 'seeing' where the problem areas are and how to handle them.  I am just so pumped up with enthusiasm following this class, and look forward to the next one where we will also be fitting skirts.  It will mean a total change in my approach to sewing - as well as opening a whole new world of patterns as I now fit into mainstream patterns, and despite being plus-sized, the patterns don't have to be!! 

I plan to make some really great TNT patterns just like my heroine Carolyn - I would love to make some dresses and she truly is an inspiration.

The funny thing is (and you know, it is not really funny - it is quite obvious really) but my RTW clothes also have the same fitting issues.  Fancy that! 

The lovely Janice will be holding more classes (I think that I will just pay a retainer and attend them all!) and wants to set up a 'drop in' for us so we can discuss ongoing projects, get advice etc.  I really can't recommend this type of class enough.  Reading through the 'Fit' book this week it is clear that Janice has been following a set training schedule that is similar to a really good franchise such as using specific pins/tape/paper (all for very good reasons), following a step-by-step measuring process that gives accurate results etc., - and she is on first name terms with Pati Palmer - I'm smitten!

So you see - size does matter!