Out of Alberta - the Details

I am a 'multiples maker' - in other words, when I get a pattern all worked out I like to make it again, and again, and again.  So it was no surprise that it should happen when working on my Tina Givens Collection for the Artisans Square 2015 SWAP (sewing with a plan) as you can see from my last post!

I had a lot of fun with details, and wanted to talk more about them, and the actual patterns.  The instructions that come with TG patterns, are quite different than the instructions that you would get with the Big 4.  Two pages, letter/A4 sized, a few pictures and some written instructions.  They are adequate, but there may be some head scratching if you are new to this sewing game.  But fear not - there is always Google!  So what did I do and what did I change?  I rather liked the cute patchwork detail - but not your Grannies patchwork - where random fabric scraps are added to your garments:

In comparison to the details on TG clothes, this is ultra conservative, but for me this is wildly way out there!!  As the clothes get washed then the edges will ruffle and fray a bit more adding character.

As you can also see from these pics, I have also top and edge-stitched pretty much all the seams.  I like the strength it adds as well as a kind of utilitarian tidiness.

Next up was the neckline and arm opening.  I started using my usual smart finish - no raw edges, like this:

I used to find that binding made the edges gap outwards, and so I changed the way I attached the binding and this is what works for me.  I cut my own binding using a rotary cutter at 1.25" wide.  I then feed it through my bias binder making thingy and I find that the extra 1/4" means that the binding meets nicely in the centre.  I sew the binding to the top from the inside (so the right side of the binding is sewn to the wrong side arm/neckline, stretching the binding a little as I sew it on.  I then flip it ALL to the right side of the garment and sew it down using a edge foot that keeps my stitching nice and tidy.

Miss TG applies her binding like this:

So I tried it too!  Same width binding, folded in half and pressed, then sewed it to the raw edges from the right side - top and edge-stitching (do you see the pattern?  I will try the raw edge finishes but don't take away my top stitching!)  As the garment gets washed, the bindings will fray and ruffle.  I am hoping that I did not sew too close to the edge and that the binding will stay put!

Another detail I utilized was adding a few buttons to my Kika dress:

You may recognize this finish and you get top marks if you recognized it from Colette's Sorbetto as seen here.

I know a lot of people would shy away from this kind of design due to the thin fabrics, wide and uneven hems.  If you have a serger, the chances are that you can do a rolled hem like I did:

Just how quick and easy is that?  I rolled the hems on the pieces before serging the side seams so that I did not need to 'roll' over a seam.  I think that the finish looks pretty good.  And yes, I have to match my serger thread!!

So there you have it - a few details that would have mde the previous post waaaaay too long!  I hope that there was something there that you found useful.  What are your favorite details that you use with your sewing?  Do tell!!

Skirt Snippets

I have been really busy sewing (5 skirts, 6 pillowcases and 2 cardigans) but have not had chance to model as yet - blame it on busy weekends, lack of natural light etc., so I have resorted to taking photos of details - mostly for me as a reminder of what I sewed, when, and what finishes I used - but also to keep you up to date!

So, first off are the skirts based on Butterick 4877.  I have found that I do not need any front darts on fitted skirts, but that 4 darts (two either side of the centre back seam) at the back as well as wide side seams that can be adjusted as required, makes a very good skirt for me.  So that is what I have done!

I made one in brown cotton corduroy (Fabricland Sale 2012, $6/m) that has a bit of stretch to it.  Actually, I have to confess, this was cut out ages ago, and I found the pieces whilst looking for some lining . . . . so I finished it off!  Gotta love UFO's that you have totally forgotten about (and then found) that fit into your current sewing blitz!

I trimmed the waistband with some cheery red rayon tape.  The hand sewn hem was trimmed with brown nylon lace and the rayon (Bemberg Ambience) lining was trimmed with black lace.  It looks a little chaotic here, but it really does work well.  And it fits a dream!  A great addition to my Birch Tree Collection.

Next is another cord skirt (I love me some corduroy!!)  This is a really thin wale, also with stretch, bought last Christmas from fabric.com to make a winter skirt with.  I's only taken me a year to do it!!

I used a pretty quilting cotton offcut to trim the waistband, cheap nylon lining (couldn't find any suitable rayon lining), and white lace to finish it off.  This fabric was featured in my Birch Tree Collection.

I then made a skirt from some gorgeous rayon/poly blend from Fabricland.  Other than the fact that it unravels like nobodies business, it is perfect in every other way - washes well, hangs beautifully - great drape and weight.  Lovely, lovely fabric, and another that was 70% off.  Wish I had bought more.

Same finishes as before, including an invisible zip.  I lurve invisible zips!!

The inspiration for the next skirt was a blog post by Funnygrrl and it uses Butterick 5687 - a 'wardrobe' pattern that includes a straight skirt with ruffles on the back.  As I do not have a mind of my own - OK, because her skirt was sooo lovely, I totally copied the color as well, using a great red crepe that has a wonderful drape.

And guess what - I learned to use the rolled hem feature on my serger and it is FABULOUS - how did I manage without it?  Feeling pretty good with myself, I even sewed the hem of the skirt with my double needle - pretty fancy smancy right???  This is such a great pattern - I used my Butterick 4877 sandwiched with this pattern, and it worked out perfectly.  I will do a proper PatternReview on this at some time on the future, as I love how it turned out.  I was able to use the back pieces of '4877 to make the lining (Ambience again) and it looks/works great.  The skirt feels lovely on - and it makes me feel very sassy!!!

Finally, I got around to making a quick and easy skirt with some ruffle fabric that I bought from Vogue about a year ago.  The fabric itself dictates that hand sewing really does not look good, so I interfaced the pieces with a tricot knit.  I serged the tricot to the fashion fabric and treated it as one.  This skirt has an elasticated waistband, but in actual fact there is very little gathering due to the stretch.  To finish off the hem I sewed some nylon 'petersham' type tape to the bottom of the skirt, then hand sewed it to the tricot lining.  The tape gives the hem a really good, stable edge that hangs well.   I love this skirt - it is soooo cute!

Phew, there are lots of photos here, so I think I will write up a separate post for the pillowcases and cardigans that I have made - hopefully with some 'action' shots!  I am hoping to get a new camera pretty soon that I can operate via my iPhone, so I can then take pics with my tripod and not be so reliant on photographers!

All-in-all it has been a pretty productive week, and yet again  have been 'production' sewing (after all, if you can make one item, why not make four?!) and this works really well for me.

I have to ask - what technique does your serger or sewing machine perform that has been quite revolutionary for you?